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Scholar/Chef on the Road
on April 18, 2018
On one hand, Buttermilk Graffiti gives us the dramatic sweep of American Regional food in the 21st Century. As in 1939's United States Regional Cookbook, and Molly O'Neill's 2010 One Big Table, this food reflects place and people who've come from near and far. Edward Lee is as much an anthropologist and philosopher as he is gifted chef. His odyssey never nods, even as he questions his voyeurism and the possibility that he is appropriating someone else's cuisine.
One the other hand, the recipes will require serious kitchen time to understand what he's done with the inspirations he found. I've not yet had time to do that. As an expatriated Southerner, my first recipe test will be the Lacy Cornbread, the last recipe in this tour-de-force.